A TASTE FROM ITALY

The cuisine of Italy is varied, fragrant and very often, beautiful to look at. Every town and region has its own culinary traditions, some of which travel round the world to reach trattorias in New York, London and Sydney-others you can only discover by visiting Italy yourself.


You will find that good Italian food is seldom oily, while garlic is used with discretion except in some of the most rustic dishes.  The quality of the olive oil is one of the golden secrets of Italian cookery so try to find some of the greenish oil labelled 'first pressing' (vergine) and use it to give an authentic flavour of Italian dishes.



    WineMenu

| Starters | Snacks | Soup | Sauce | Meat | Poultry | Dessert | Baking |


Ossobuco alla Milanese
Braised skin of veal Milan-style

Serves 4       Preparation and cooking time:  about 3 hours
  • 2lb (1kg) shin of veal, cut into 2in (5 cm) pieces complete with bone and marrow
  • salt and pepper
  • 3 tablespoons flour
  • 2oz (50g) butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 onion chopped
  • 2 sticks of celery, chopped
  • 4 tomatoes, quartered
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
  • 7 floz (200ml) dry white wine
  • 7 floz (200ml) stock
  • 1 bay leaf
  • sprig of parsley

    The gremolata (traditional garnish):
  • 2 anchovy fillets
  • 1 teaspoon lemon juice
  • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
  • 1oz (25g) butter
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
  • a little grated lemon peel

  Pat meat dry with kitchen paper.  Put it into a plastic bag with the salt, pepper, and flour.  Shake to coat the meat.


  Heat the butter and oil in a large heavy pan and set aside.  Add vegetables to the pan and stir over a low heat of 5 minutes to soften but not brown.  Place the meat upright on the top of the vegetables, and add the remaining ingredients.


  Bring to boil, then reduce the heat, cover the pan and cook gently for 1½-2hours. Turn the bones once during cooking.  The meat should be tender enough to be eaten without a knife when the dish is cooked.


  Remove the meat with the bones to a serving dish and keep hot.  Rub the sauce through a sieve.  If necessary, re-boil to reduce a little.  Serve separately.  And provide spoons for eating the marrow.


  For the gremolata, pound together all the ingredients to form a paste.  Spread over the cooked meat before serving.



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        Braciolette Ripiene
Stuffed veal rolls

Serves 4       Preparation time:  30 minutes     Cooking time:  20 minutes

  • 4 veal escalopes, each weighing 3oz (75g)
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 8 small thin slices of Parma ham, or 4 large thin slices of cooked ham, halved
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1oz (25g) butter
  • 6 tablespoons dry white wine
  • extra olive oil for frying
  • 4 slices of French bread

    The Filling:
  • bunch of parsley, weighing about 2oz (50g), stalks removed and finely chopped
  • 2oz (50g) pine nuts or nibbed almonds
  • 1oz (25g) sultanas
  • 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Mix together the filling ingredients and set aside.  Beat the veal escalopes out thinly between 2 sheets of cling film using a cutlet bat or rolling pin.  Cut each escalope into 2 equal pieces and season with pepper.


  Put a slice of ham so that it does not overlap the veal.  Spoon some filling onto each piece and press it down keeping it in from the edges.  Roll each piece up and tie it in 2 pieces with fine string.


  Heat the oil and butter in a large frying-pan.  Fry the veal rolls gently until golden brown- about 10 minutes.  Add the wine, let it bubble for 1 minute, then lower the heat, cover the pan and cook for 4-5 minutes, until the veal is tender.


  Transfer the rolls to a heated dish and remove the strings.  Keep the veal warm in a low oven.  Boil the pan juices to reduce them to a glaze.  Meanwhile, heat some oil in a seperate frying-pan and fry the slices of bread until golden brown on both sides.  Drain on absorbent kitchen paper.  Spoon the glaze over the rolls and serve with the croûtes.


  If you wish, before spooning over the glaze you can place the rolls briefly under a hot grill.



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        Ragų Bolognese
Bolognese meat sauce

Serves 6       Preparation time:  15 minutes    Cooking time:  50 minutes

  • 2 oz (50g) bacon fat or butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 1 carrot, finely chopped
  • 2 sticks celery, sliced
  • 4oz (100g) minced raw pork
  • 4 oz (100g) minced raw beef
  • 4oz (100g) Parma ham or streaky bacon, diced
  • 5 tablespoons tomato pureč
  • ¼ pint(150ml) beef stock
  • 6 tablespoons red wine
  • 4oz (100g) button mushrooms, sliced
  • pinch of dried oregano
  • salt and pepper

  Heat the bacon fat and oil in a large saucepan and use to sautč the vegetables until the onion turns translucent.


  Crumble the pork and beef into the pan, add the ham or bacon, quickly turning the mixture with a fork.


  For a thicker ragų, remove the lid after 20 minutes.


  Adjust the seasoning and serve with spaghetti allowing about 3oz (75g) pasta per person.



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        Risotto alla Milanese
Risotto Milan-style

Serves 4       Preparation and cooking time:  35-40 minutes

  • a pinch of saffron strands
  • about 1¼ pints (750ml) hot chicken stock
  • 2oz (50g) butter
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 8oz (225g) rice
  • ¼ pint (150ml) dry white wine
  • 1 oz (25g) grated fresh Parmesan cheese
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • extra Parmesan cheese to serve

  Put the saffron in a cup with 2 tablespoons of the hot stock and leave to stand, pressing the strands with a teaspoon from time to time.


  Melt half the butter in a heavy saucepan or frying-pan and soften the onion for 2-3 minutes.  Add the rice and stir to coat it with the butter.


  Pour in the wine and cook over a medium heat of about 1 minute, until the wine has almost evaporated.  Reduce the heat, add about 4fl oz (100ml) of hot stock and cook, stirring occasionally with a fork, until the stock is absorbed.  Continie adding stock a little at a time, and stirring frequently, until the rice is cooked- about 25 minutes.  Strain the saffron liquid into the pan for the last minute of cooking.


  Add the remaining butter and the Parmesan cheese, season and serve.



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        Zabaglione
Marsala 'custard'

Serves 4       Preparation and cooking time:  about 15 minutes

  • 4 large egg yolks
  • 3oz (75g) caster sugar
  • 6 tablespoons Marsala

  Cream together the egg yolks and caster sugar in a bowl.  Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water-the water should not touch the base of the bowl- and whisk in the Marsala, or other strong-tasting sweet dessert wine.  Continue whisking-by hand or with an electric beater-until the mixture is pale, creamy and thick.  Do not allow to boil.  Pour into glasses and serve while still warm, with thin crisp biscuits.

  Note:  This classic dessert can be served as a source for fruit dishes or a fruit salad.

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        Cassata alla Siciliana
Sicilian layer cake

A simple madeira cake, layered with a ricotta and fruit filling and coasted with tomatoes almond, makes a most delicious dessert.  It is rich but not overwhelming, and not at all difficult to make.


Certainly you may use a commercially made madeira cake, but you will have to adapt the quantities of the filling and coating for the size of cake you buy.  Of course, your homemade cake will have its own special flavour.



Serves 9-10       Preparation time:  1 hour    Cooking time:  1 hour
  • The cake:
  • 7oz (200g) butter, softened
  • 7oz (200g) caster sugar
  • 4 eggs, size 2
  • 11oz (300g) plain flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 4 tablespoons sherry or milk

    The filling and coating:
  • 14oz (400g) ricotta cheese
  • 4oz (100g) caster sugar
  • 2 tablespoons maraschino liqueur
  • 3oz (75g) glace cherries, chopped
  • ¼ (7g) angelica, finely chopped
  • 2oz (50g) dried apricots, chopped
  • 2oz (50g) raisins
  • finely grated zest of ¼ lemon
  • 3oz (80g) chopped almonds, toasted
  • 4tablespoons apricot jam, melted and sieved

  First make the cake:  heat the oven to 325F (160C) gas 3.  Grease and line a loaf tin measuring about 9 x 5 x 3in (23 x 13 x 7.5cm).  Beat the butter and sugar together until light and creamy.  Sift together the flour and baking powder and stir into the cake mixture.  Add the sherry or milk and mix in well.  Turn the mixture into the prepared loaf tin and level the top.  Bake for about 1 hour, or until the cake is well risen, a good golden colour, and beginning to shrink away from the sides of the tin.  A skewer inserted in the centre of the cake should come out clean.


  Allow the cooked cake to cool in the tin for a short while, then turn it carefully on to a wire rack and leave it to get cold.


  Make the filling:  beat tne ricotta cheese with the sugar until fluffy and stiff.  Mix in the liqueur, fruits and lemon zest.


  Slice the cold cake horizontally into four layers, then sandwich the layers with the ricotta filling.  Press down lightly.  Put the toasted almonds on a sheet of greaseproof paper.  Brush the sides of the cake with the warm jam, then, holding the cake by the top and bottom, dip the sides of the cake in the toasted almonds.  Brush the top of the cake with more jam amd sprinkle with the remaining almonds.


  Transfer the cake to a plate or board and cut into-thick slices to serve.



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        Minestrone
Soup with vegetables, meat and pasta

Serves 8       Preparation time:  30 minutes    Cooking time:  30 minutes

  • 1oz (25g) butter or bacon fat
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 carrots, sliced
  • 8oz (225g) green beans, sliced
  • a few cauliflower or broccoli florets
  • 9oz (250g) Parma ham or streaky bacon, diced
  • 2¼ pints (1.25 litres) beef stock
  • 2 courgettes, thinly sliced
  • 11oz (300g) fresh spinach, shredded
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
  • 8oz (225g) short pasta
  • salt and pepper

  Heat the fat in a large saucepan and sautč the onion until transparent.  Add the carrots, beans, cauliflower or broccoli and ham, and cook for a further 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.


  Pour in the stock and bring the contents of the pan to the boil, then add the remaining vegetables, the parsley, and the pasta.


  Cook gently until the pasta is 'al dente'- cooked but firm to bite.  Season to taste and serve immediately.



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        Petti di pollo al limone
Chicken breasts with lemon

Serves 4       

  • 4 boned chicken breasts
  • flour for coating
  • salt and pepper
  • 1 tablespoon oil
  • 65g (2½ oz) butter
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 3 tablespoons chicken stock
  • 3 tablespoons chopped parsley
  • lemon slices to garnish


  Cut each chicken breast horizontally into 2 slices.  Season the flour with salt and pepper and use to coat the chicken pieces.


  Heat the oil and 40g (1½ oz) of the butter in a large frying pan, add the chicken and fry gently for 5 to 6 minutes on each side until tender.  Transfer to a warm serving dish and keep hot.


  Add the lemon juice and stock to the pan juices, bring to the boil, stirring, and boil for 1 minute.  Add the parsley and remaining butter and stir until blended.


  Pour over the chicken and garnish with lemon slices.



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